Key takeaways
- The core routine is cleanse, moisturise, protect in the morning, and cleanse and moisturise at night.
- Sunscreen is the step with the most evidence for preventing pigmentation and ageing in Indian skin.
- Add one active at night for one goal: a retinoid, azelaic acid, niacinamide or vitamin C, depending on the problem.
- Introduce products one at a time and give each at least eight to twelve weeks.
- Long routines with many actives are a common cause of irritation and dark patches on brown skin.
Why do I recommend so few products?
People show me their bathroom shelf on their phone, and there are twelve products. Toner, essence, three serums, two creams, a mist. I ask, "Which one is working?" Normally, they do not know.
See, what happens is, every extra product is another chance of irritation, and brown skin answers irritation with dark marks. It also makes it impossible to tell what is helping. I learnt chess endgame first, so I always ask: what result do you want, and what is the shortest path there? For most skin, the shortest path is three steps and patience.
What is the basic routine?
| Morning | Night | |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Gentle cleanser (or just water if your skin is dry) | Gentle cleanser; remove makeup and sunscreen properly |
| 2 | Moisturiser for your skin type | One active, only if needed |
| 3 | Sunscreen, broad spectrum, SPF 30 or higher | Moisturiser |
That is it. Let me explain each step.
Cleanser
A gentle, soap-free, fragrance-free cleanser. Foam or gel for oily skin, cream or lotion for dry skin. The American Academy of Dermatology suggests oily skin can be cleansed up to twice daily and after sweating. Dry skin often does better with water alone in the morning.
Moisturiser
Oily skin: a light gel, oil-free and non-comedogenic. Dry skin: a cream, and the AAD prefers creams or ointments over lotions for dryness. Ingredients such as glycerin, ceramides, hyaluronic acid and dimethicone are reliable. You do not need an expensive one. You need one you like using.
Sunscreen
This is the step I will not let you skip. The AAD recommends broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher, reapplied about every two hours outdoors and after sweating. In India, also look for a PA+++ or higher rating for UVA. The AAD also notes that visible light can increase pigmentation, especially in darker skin, and suggests tinted sunscreens. For melasma and dark marks, a tinted one is worth trying.
Use enough: about two finger-lengths for the face and neck. I explain amounts and filters in sunscreen for Indian skin.
Which one active should I add at night?
Basically, choose by problem, not by trend. One at a time.
| Your main concern | A reasonable first active | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Acne, blackheads | Adapalene or another retinoid | Start two or three nights a week |
| Fine lines, sun damage | Retinoid (retinol or tretinoin) | Results take months |
| Dark marks after pimples, uneven tone | Azelaic acid, niacinamide or a retinoid | Sunscreen matters as much |
| Dullness | Vitamin C (morning) or a retinoid (night) | Often dullness is a sleep or routine issue |
| Sensitive or red skin | Nothing new until calm | Barrier first |
DermNet notes that retinoid results may take twelve weeks or longer. That is true of most actives. So give each one three months before you decide it does not work. I have written separate guides on retinoids, vitamin C and niacinamide.
What can most people skip?
- Toners. Most are water with fragrance. Alcohol toners irritate.
- Face mists. They evaporate and can leave skin drier.
- Daily scrubs and exfoliating brushes. These inflame Indian skin.
- Layering many serums. Pick one goal.
- Sheet masks. Pleasant, harmless for most, not essential.
- Fairness creams and mixed creams from the chemist. Some contain steroids, which can damage the skin. See the hidden steroid problem in mixed creams.
- Kitchen remedies on the face: lemon, baking soda, raw garlic, toothpaste. They irritate and can leave dark patches.
How should I adjust the routine?
- In the Mumbai monsoon and summer: lighter gel moisturiser, gel sunscreen, maybe a salicylic acid cleanser if you get breakouts. More in oily skin in Mumbai humidity.
- In winter or AC offices: a richer cream, applied on damp skin after washing. See dry skin from AC and winter.
- If skin stings: stop the active, keep the three basics. See sensitive skin.
- In pregnancy or when planning it: stop retinoids and ask your doctor before any active.
- For men: the same routine. Shaving counts as exfoliation, so be gentle with acids on the beard area.
How do I know if it is working?
Take a photo in the same window light once a month, without filters. Skin changes slowly, and the mirror every morning hides progress. If after three months there is no change in a specific problem, such as acne, melasma or marks, that is the point to see a doctor rather than buy the next product.
How we approach this at Dr Tvacha
In my clinic, the routine comes before any treatment, because even a good peel or laser does not hold if the daily care is wrong. At a Rs 499 skin consultation I look at your skin and your current products, and write down a morning and night routine with generic ingredient names, so you can buy what suits your budget. If you need treatment as well, it is quoted in writing first. The approach is Diagnose, Treat, Protect, Maintain, explained on the Second Layer Skin Plan page.
Frequently asked questions
Do I really need a moisturiser if I have oily skin?
Usually yes, but a light gel one. Oily skin can still lose water, especially in AC rooms or when using acne treatments, and a dehydrated barrier gets irritated more easily. Choose oil-free and non-comedogenic. On very oily skin in Mumbai summer, a good gel sunscreen in the morning can act as your moisturiser, with a light gel at night.
Do I need sunscreen indoors?
If you sit near windows or work in a bright room, it helps. The American Academy of Dermatology notes that UVA rays pass through window glass, and visible light can also increase pigmentation in darker skin. If you have melasma or dark marks, I recommend sunscreen every morning even at home. If you are in an inner room all day, one morning application is usually enough.
How long before a new skincare product shows results?
Most actives take eight to twelve weeks to show a visible change, and some, like retinoids for ageing, take longer. Moisturisers and sunscreen feel different immediately, but their real benefit shows over months. Give one product a fair trial of about three months, using it consistently, before deciding it does not work for you.
Can I use vitamin C, niacinamide and retinol together?
You can, but I rarely suggest starting all three. Using several actives at once raises the chance of irritation, and on Indian skin irritation can leave dark marks. Start with one active for your main concern, use it for a few months, and add a second only if needed. Many people use vitamin C in the morning and a retinoid at night.
Is an expensive skincare routine better?
Not necessarily. The ingredients that matter, such as gentle cleansers, glycerin-based moisturisers, retinoids, niacinamide and sunscreen filters, are available at many price points in India. What matters is the right ingredient, a texture you will use every day, and consistency. Price often reflects packaging and marketing more than results.
Written by
Dr Amit KarkhanisAesthetic Physician · MBBS, Dip. Dermatology (UK) · Reg. No. 2001/02/1124Founder of Dr Tvacha, practising in Thane since 2005. Leads the weight loss and hair programmes.
Sources
- Sunscreen FAQs, American Academy of Dermatology
- How to control oily skin, American Academy of Dermatology
- Dermatologists' top tips for relieving dry skin, American Academy of Dermatology
- Topical retinoids, DermNet
- Sensitive skin, DermNet
This article is for general education and does not replace a consultation. Medicines and treatments are prescribed only after a doctor's assessment. Last reviewed 25 October 2026.