Vitamin C serums: do they work for Indian skin?

Key takeaways

• Topical vitamin C is an antioxidant used for sun-related ageing and for pigmentation, but it is unstable and hard to deliver into the skin.
• L-ascorbic acid at about 10 to 15 percent in a low-pH serum has the most clinical evidence, often combined with vitamin E and ferulic acid.
• Gentler derivatives, such as ascorbyl glucoside or tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, are better tolerated but have less evidence.
• Evidence for melasma and dark marks is moderate and mostly from small studies; few studies include brown skin.
• Use it in the morning under sunscreen, store it away from light and heat, and stop if it turns dark orange or stings.

What does vitamin C do on the skin?

See, what happens is, sunlight and pollution create unstable molecules called free radicals in the skin. They damage collagen and trigger pigment. Vitamin C is an antioxidant: it neutralises some of these. It also plays a role in building collagen and can slow one of the steps in making pigment.

A review in the Indian Dermatology Online Journal describes vitamin C as a strong antioxidant used topically to prevent and treat sun-related ageing and to treat hyperpigmentation. The same review points out the catch: vitamin C is unstable and hard to deliver into the deeper skin at an effective dose. So the bottle matters as much as the ingredient.

What does the evidence actually show?

A 2026 systematic review in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology looked at 44 studies from 2020 onwards. In plain words:

The authors also noted that many studies were small, short or industry-sponsored, and that few reported skin type, so evidence for darker skin is limited. They concluded that results depend on the formulation chemistry, not just on how much vitamin C is in the bottle.

That is very important to understand. Vitamin C is a reasonable supporting player. It is not the main treatment for melasma, and it will not change your natural skin colour.

Which type of vitamin C should I choose?

• L-ascorbic acid. The form with the most evidence. Needs a low pH to work, which also makes it more likely to sting. Best for normal or oily skin that tolerates actives.
• Ascorbyl glucoside, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. More stable, gentler, a good option for sensitive skin. Evidence is smaller.
• Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. Oil-soluble and stable. Feels good, gentle on the skin.

Look for: - Opaque, airtight packaging, such as a dark bottle or pump. - A formula that pairs it with vitamin E and ferulic acid if you choose L-ascorbic acid. - A small bottle you can finish within a couple of months.

How do I use a vitamin C serum?

1. Morning, after cleansing. A few drops on dry skin.
2. Moisturiser if needed.
3. Sunscreen on top, every day. This is the step that does most of the protecting.
4. Start every other morning if you have sensitive skin, then daily.
5. Keep retinoids at night. Vitamin C in the morning and a retinoid at night is a common, comfortable pairing.

A mild tingle for a few seconds is normal with L-ascorbic acid. Burning, redness or itching is not. Stop and switch to a gentler form.

Why did my serum turn orange?

Basically, it oxidised. Vitamin C breaks down with air, light and heat, and turns yellow, then orange, then brown. A Mumbai bathroom shelf in May is not kind to it. Once it is dark, it is less effective and may irritate. It can also leave a temporary orange tint on the skin.

Keep it in a cool, dark place, close the cap firmly, and do not buy a large bottle you will take six months to finish. Some people keep it in the fridge, which is fine.

Should I try vitamin C drips or tablets for glow?

Oral vitamin C is important for general health, and deficiency does affect the skin. But if you eat fruit and vegetables such as amla, guava, oranges and green leafy vegetables, you are unlikely to need high-dose tablets for skin. The systematic review mentioned some studies on dietary antioxidant combinations at modest doses, with modest results.

IV vitamin C and glutathione drips for skin lightening are a different question. I have looked at the evidence for these, and it is thin. I discuss it honestly in our anti-ageing section.

What vitamin C cannot fix

• Melasma needs strict sun protection and specific creams first. See treating melasma safely in Indian skin.
• Deep dark marks from acne fade faster with retinoids, azelaic acid and sunscreen. Vitamin C can support this. See dark marks after pimples.
• Dullness from poor sleep, smoking or illness needs the cause treated. See why your skin looks dull.
• Your natural skin colour. No serum changes it, and it does not need changing.

How we approach this at Dr Tvacha

In my clinic, vitamin C is often part of the morning routine for people with sun damage or uneven tone, but it is rarely the whole plan. At a Rs 499 skin consultation I look at what is behind your pigmentation or dullness, and suggest the form of vitamin C, if any, that suits your skin. If peels, laser therapy or a medical facial would help, the plan and fee are written down first. The approach is on the Second Layer Skin Plan page.

Written by

Dr Amit KarkhanisAesthetic Physician · MBBS, Dip. Dermatology (UK) · Reg. No. 2001/02/1124

Founder of Dr Tvacha, practising in Thane since 2005. Leads the weight loss and hair programmes.