Sunscreen for Indian skin: SPF, PA and how much to use

Key takeaways

• SPF measures protection against UVB, the burning rays. PA measures protection against UVA, the ageing and tanning rays. You need both.
• SPF 30 blocks about 97% of UVB. Higher SPF helps mainly because most people apply too little.
• Quantity matters more than the number on the bottle. Most people use a quarter to half of what is needed.
• Tinted sunscreens with iron oxide protect against visible light, which matters for melasma and dark marks in brown skin.
• The right texture is the one you will actually wear every day in Mumbai humidity.

Do Indians really need sunscreen?

Patients sometimes tell me, "Doctor, we are Indians, our skin is made for the sun." Partly true. Darker skin has more natural protection, and skin cancer is less common in brown skin. The NHS notes this too.

But here is the truth. Brown skin still gets UV damage, and it shows up differently: tanning, dark marks after pimples, melasma, uneven tone and early wrinkles. The Indian Sunscreen Forum's 2025 consensus notes that post-inflammatory pigmentation is more common in skin types IV to VI, and that pigment triggered by visible light lasts longer in darker skin. So for most of my patients, sunscreen is not about avoiding sunburn. It is about pigment and ageing.

What do SPF and PA actually mean?

The PA system comes from Japan and is based on a test called persistent pigment darkening, which measures how much a sunscreen prevents UVA-induced darkening. PA++++ is the highest grade. For brown skin, which tans and pigments easily, UVA protection is especially relevant.

The American Academy of Dermatology notes that no sunscreen blocks everything, and that a higher SPF does not mean you can stay outside longer.

How much sunscreen should I apply?

That is very important to understand, because this is where most people go wrong.

Sunscreens are tested at 2 mg per square centimetre of skin. The Indian Sunscreen Forum's consensus notes that most people apply only 0.5 to 1.5 mg/cm², which greatly reduces the protection you actually get. Its practical guide:

• Face and neck: about one to two teaspoons
• Whole body: about a shot glass (around 45 ml)

Basically, if your bottle lasts six months, you are not using enough.

A simple method I suggest: apply one layer, wait a minute, and apply a second layer. Two thinner layers are easier to spread than one thick one and get you closer to the tested amount.

When should I reapply?

The advice varies slightly between sources, so here is how I explain it: - The American Academy of Dermatology advises reapplying every two hours when outdoors, and after swimming or sweating. - The Indian Sunscreen Forum's consensus notes that if you apply the full amount, reapplication within a working day is less critical unless the sunscreen is removed by sweat, water or rubbing, and suggests reapplying every two to three hours for melasma.

In practice, in Mumbai, sweat and wiping your face with a handkerchief remove sunscreen quickly. If you are outdoors, reapply. If you are indoors in an AC office and away from windows, a good morning application is a reasonable start. If you have melasma, reapply anyway.

The consensus also notes sunscreen protects within about ten minutes of application, though applying fifteen to thirty minutes before going out is traditional advice.

Mineral, chemical or tinted: which should I choose?

• Mineral (physical) sunscreens contain zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. The American Academy of Dermatology notes they are often recommended for sensitive skin. They can leave a white cast on brown skin.
• Chemical sunscreens absorb UV. They are usually lighter and leave no cast.
• Hybrid sunscreens combine both.
• Tinted sunscreens contain iron oxides that add colour and block visible light. The American Academy of Dermatology suggests tinted sunscreens for people with darker skin concerned about dark spots, and the Indian consensus prefers iron oxide sunscreens for melasma.

All types work if they are broad-spectrum and used generously.

Which texture suits my skin?

The Indian Sunscreen Forum's consensus gives practical advice by skin type:

• Oily or acne-prone: non-comedogenic gels, water-based lotions or dry-touch formulas. Good for Mumbai humidity.
• Combination: gel-creams or oil-free lotions.
• Dry: creams with humectants such as glycerin or panthenol. Useful in AC offices or winter.
• Sensitive: fragrance-free mineral sunscreens; patch test first.
• After procedures: mineral sunscreens.

If you have acne, a heavy sunscreen can block pores. Changing the texture is usually the answer, not stopping sunscreen. See why adults still get acne.

What else counts as sun protection?

Sunscreen is one part. The NHS reminds us that sunscreen alone is not enough: - Shade during strong midday sun - A cap or wide-brimmed hat, and sunglasses - Full sleeves or a light dupatta or stole - Gloves for two-wheeler riders

How we approach this at Dr Tvacha

Every skin plan I write at Thane, Andheri, Bandra and Dahisar includes sun protection, because it is part of "Protect" in the clinic's Diagnose, Treat, Protect, Maintain order. At the Rs 499 skin consultation, I help you choose a sunscreen type that suits your skin and your concern, whether that is acne, melasma or dark marks. The plan and fees are in writing before you pay. Read about the Second Layer Skin Plan or find a centre. For common misunderstandings, see sunscreen myths.

Written by

Dr Amit KarkhanisAesthetic Physician · MBBS, Dip. Dermatology (UK) · Reg. No. 2001/02/1124

Founder of Dr Tvacha, practising in Thane since 2005. Leads the weight loss and hair programmes.