Skincare for men: the simple version

Key takeaways

• Morning: wash, moisturise, sunscreen. Night: wash, and a treatment only if you need one.
• Men's skin is usually oilier, but it still needs moisturiser, especially after shaving and in air conditioning.
• Razor bumps are common in Indian men with curly or coarse beard hair. Technique fixes most of them.
• Sunscreen is the single most useful product for tan, pigmentation and ageing.
• See a doctor for acne that is scarring, bumps that keep coming back, or any changing spot.

Do men really need a skincare routine?

Normally, men tell me, "Doctor, I just use soap." That is fine for many years, until a problem appears: acne in the beard area, razor bumps, tan that does not fade, dark circles, or oily skin that shines by noon. Then they want a fix quickly.

I am happy to give you that fix. But basically, most of these problems are prevented or eased by a routine that takes about two minutes. I am not asking you to adopt a ten-step routine. I am asking for three steps you will actually do.

What is the minimum routine?

A few practical points: - Bar soap on the face can be drying. If your skin feels tight after washing, switch. - Gel textures suit oily skin in Mumbai's humidity. Cream textures suit drier skin and air-conditioned offices. - Sunscreen quantity matters. Most men apply too little. Cover the whole face, ears and back of the neck. My article on sunscreen for Indian skin explains how much.

How do I stop razor bumps?

Razor bumps, called pseudofolliculitis barbae, happen when cut hairs curl back into the skin and inflame it. DermNet notes they are more common in people with darker skin and curly or coarse hair, and with blade razors more than electric shavers. In Indian men, they often leave dark marks on the jaw and neck.

The American Academy of Dermatology suggests these shaving habits: 1. Soften first. Shave after a shower, or hold a warm, wet cloth on the beard for a few minutes. 2. Never dry shave. Use a shaving gel or cream and keep it wet. 3. Use a sharp blade. The AAD suggests replacing a single-blade razor after five to seven shaves. 4. Shave with the grain, in the direction the hair grows, with short strokes and light pressure. 5. Do not stretch the skin, and do not go over the same area more than twice. 6. Rinse with cool water and apply a gentle, alcohol-free aftershave or moisturiser. 7. Shave less often if you can, or leave slight stubble. DermNet mentions leaving about 1 mm, or switching to an electric trimmer.

If bumps keep coming back despite good technique, see a doctor. Treatments include prescription creams that reduce inflammation and blockage, and for some men laser hair reduction of the beard line. My article on how laser hair reduction works explains what to expect.

What about oily skin and acne in men?

In my clinic, men's skin is more often on the oily side, and in humid weather that shows. What usually helps: - A salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide wash, once or twice a day - A light gel moisturiser rather than skipping moisturiser - No heavy creams or hair oil running onto the forehead - Changing pillow covers and cleaning the phone screen - Not picking or squeezing

The NHS advises seeing a doctor if acne is deep, painful, scarring or affecting your mood. The American Academy of Dermatology's 2024 guidelines strongly recommend benzoyl peroxide and topical retinoids as foundations of acne treatment. Gym supplements can be a factor for some men. If your acne started with a new protein powder or any hormone-based product, please tell your doctor.

For body acne, see back and chest acne.

Tan, pigmentation and "dull" skin

Two-wheeler commutes, cricket on weekends and site work all add up. See, what happens is, Indian skin responds to sun by making more pigment, which shows as tan and uneven patches, especially on the forehead, cheekbones and neck. Sunscreen every morning prevents most of it. Fairness creams do not fix it, and some contain steroids that damage the skin.

Once you are protecting your skin, a doctor can suggest targeted treatment for what remains. That might be a topical agent, a peel or, for some, a laser. These come after sunscreen, not instead of it.

When should a man see a doctor about his skin?

• Acne that leaves marks or scars
• Razor bumps that keep coming back
• A dark, velvety neck, which can signal insulin resistance; see dark neck
• Persistent itchy rashes, especially in the groin or waist in humid weather
• Any mole or spot that is new, changing, bleeding or different from others

That last one deserves emphasis. Men tend to ignore spots on the back and scalp. Ask someone at home to check your back, and see a doctor promptly for anything that changes.

How we approach this at Dr Tvacha

Many men come in for one specific problem and leave with a short routine and one treatment. Under the Second Layer Skin Plan at our Thane, Andheri, Bandra and Dahisar centres, I examine your skin, ask about shaving, gym and work habits, and suggest only what you need. Treatments such as acne care, chemical peels or laser hair reduction are quoted in writing before you start. I see patients in Thane in the mornings and in Andheri in the evenings, which suits many working men.

Written by

Dr Amit KarkhanisAesthetic Physician · MBBS, Dip. Dermatology (UK) · Reg. No. 2001/02/1124

Founder of Dr Tvacha, practising in Thane since 2005. Leads the weight loss and hair programmes.