How to remove a sun tan: what works and what doesn't

Key takeaways

• A tan is a sign of skin damage, not a healthy glow. There is no safe tan.
• It fades on its own once you stop topping it up with sun.
• Sunscreen, clothing and shade do more than any de-tan pack.
• Gentle ingredients like glycolic acid, azelaic acid, vitamin C and retinoids can help even out tanned skin.
• If a "tan" does not fade after a few months, it may be melasma or another pigment condition and should be checked.

What actually is a sun tan?

People think of a tan as colour. See, what happens is, a tan is a repair response. UV rays damage the DNA in the outer skin cells, and the skin answers by making more melanin to shield itself. The Skin Cancer Foundation puts it plainly: a tan is evidence of DNA injury, and there is no such thing as a safe or healthy tan.

Brown skin tans easily and evenly, which is why Indians often do not notice sunburn but do notice the tan line from a watch strap, the dark forearms from a two-wheeler ride, or a darker face after a Goa weekend.

How long does a tan take to fade?

Normally a fresh tan fades over weeks to a few months, as the outer layer of skin sheds and renews. How long depends on how dark it is, how often you keep going into the sun, and your skin type.

The problem in Mumbai is that most people never stop topping it up. A daily walk to the station, standing at a bus stop, driving with the window down. The tan never gets a chance to fade. That is very important to understand: the single biggest step is to stop adding to it.

What genuinely helps a tan fade?

1. Protection, every day - A broad-spectrum sunscreen of SPF 30 or more on all exposed skin. The American Academy of Dermatology notes SPF 30 blocks about 97% of UVB rays. - Reapply when you are outdoors for long periods. - Clouds do not stop UV. The American Academy of Dermatology says up to 80% of harmful UV rays pass through clouds, which matters in the monsoon. - UVA passes through glass, so car and office windows count. - Clothing: full sleeves, a cap, sunglasses, gloves for two-wheeler riders.

2. Gentle ingredients that even out skin These can help skin renew and reduce pigment, according to the American Academy of Dermatology's guidance on dark spots in darker skin: - Glycolic acid - Azelaic acid - Vitamin C - Retinoids - Kojic acid

Start one product at a time, a few nights a week, and build up. Irritated skin makes more pigment, not less.

3. In-clinic help, when needed - Superficial chemical peels, such as glycolic or lactic acid, can speed up the shedding of tanned surface cells. The Indian guidelines on chemical peels describe superficial peels as considered safe in Indian patients. See chemical peels explained. - Medical facials, which in a clinic setting use exfoliation suited to your skin type. These are a support, not a cure. - Laser therapy is occasionally used for stubborn pigment, but for a simple tan it is rarely needed.

What does not work, or can make it worse?

Basically, anything that stings is not helping your tan.

Is it a tan or something else?

A tan is even, follows the areas exposed to sun and fades when you protect your skin. If what you have is patchy, symmetrical on the cheeks and upper lip, or is not fading after a few months of good protection, it may be:

• Melasma, a hormonal and light-driven pigment condition. See melasma explained.
• Dark marks after pimples, which are flat brown spots where acne was.
• Dark neck or underarms, which can be linked to insulin resistance rather than sun.
• Uneven tone from several causes together. See uneven skin tone.

These need different treatment, so a proper look is worth it before you buy another product.

What about tan on hands, feet and arms?

The same principles apply, with a few practical points: - Hands and forearms get a lot of sun while driving and riding. Apply sunscreen to the backs of your hands and reapply after washing. - Feet tan in sandals in a pattern. Sunscreen on the tops of the feet helps. - Body skin is thicker and renews more slowly, so body tans fade more slowly than face tans. - For the body, you need much more sunscreen than people think. The American Academy of Dermatology suggests about a shot glass for exposed body skin.

How we approach this at Dr Tvacha

If a tan is not fading with good protection, or you are not sure it is a tan at all, I would rather look at it than have you try ten creams. At our centres in Thane, Andheri, Bandra and Dahisar, the Rs 499 skin consultation checks what the pigment really is and whether you need only a home routine or also treatments such as peels or a medical facial. The plan and fees are written down before you pay. Read about the Second Layer Skin Plan or find your nearest centre.

Written by

Dr Amit KarkhanisAesthetic Physician · MBBS, Dip. Dermatology (UK) · Reg. No. 2001/02/1124

Founder of Dr Tvacha, practising in Thane since 2005. Leads the weight loss and hair programmes.