Key takeaways
- Sunscreen every day is the anti-ageing step with the strongest long-term trial evidence.
- A retinoid at night is the other proven step. Start slowly.
- A plain moisturiser helps skin look smoother, though the effect is temporary.
- More products means more irritation, not more results. Four or five steps is enough.
- Give any routine three to six months before judging it.
Why keep the routine simple?
People come to me with eight or ten products, from three different brands, with acids and serums layered on each other. Their skin is red and sensitive and they ask why it looks older.
See, what happens is, every active ingredient carries a small risk of irritation. In brown skin, irritation can leave dark marks. So a crowded routine can work against you. Mayo Clinic notes that most skincare creams are regulated as cosmetics, not medicines, and that over-the-counter products should be expected to give small improvements. That is very important to understand. The heavy lifting is done by a few things you use every day for years.
The routine at a glance
| Step | Morning | Night |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Cleanse | Gentle, non-soap cleanser, or just water if skin is dry | Gentle cleanser to remove sunscreen, sweat and pollution |
| 2. Treat | Optional: vitamin C or niacinamide serum | Retinoid, 2 to 3 nights a week at first, building up |
| 3. Moisturise | If needed; light gel in humidity, cream in AC or winter | Yes, especially on retinoid nights |
| 4. Protect | Broad-spectrum sunscreen, SPF 30 or more | Not needed |
That is it. Everything else is a choice, not a requirement.
Morning: protect
Sunscreen is the anti-ageing step
The Nambour trial in Australia randomly assigned adults to daily sunscreen or to use sunscreen as they liked. After about four and a half years, those under 55 using it daily were 24% less likely to show increased skin ageing. That is a randomised trial over years, which very few skincare claims have.
For Indian skin, sunscreen also helps with pigmentation, tanning and melasma, which often bother people more than lines do.
What I tell my patients: - Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen of SPF 30 or more. Mayo Clinic and the American Academy of Dermatology both recommend this level. - Apply enough. Most people use far too little. Cover the face, ears and neck. - Reapply about every two hours if you are outdoors or sweating, as Mayo Clinic advises. - Use it on cloudy monsoon days and indoors near windows. - Mineral sunscreens (zinc or titanium oxide) can suit sensitive skin, according to Mayo Clinic. Some leave a white cast on brown skin, so tinted versions are worth trying.
An antioxidant, if you like
Mayo Clinic notes daily vitamin C may help protect against sun and pollution damage and improve tone, and that niacinamide may improve tone and calm skin. These are reasonable but optional. Vitamin C breaks down with light, heat and air, so store it closed in a cool, dark place. Mumbai summers are not kind to vitamin C bottles left on a sunny bathroom shelf.
Night: repair
A retinoid
Retinoids are the other step with solid evidence. Systematic reviews of randomised trials show tretinoin improves fine and coarse wrinkles, blotchy pigment and sun spots over months. Retinol is milder and available over the counter. I have explained them in detail in retinoids for anti-ageing.
Normally: - Start with a pea-sized amount, two or three nights a week. - Increase as your skin settles. - Avoid in pregnancy.
A moisturiser
Mayo Clinic notes moisturisers temporarily plump the skin and make fine lines less visible. The American Academy of Dermatology suggests ingredients such as hyaluronic acid or glycerin, and fragrance-free products for skin that irritates easily. In air-conditioned offices and winter, skin dries out more. In the monsoon, a lighter gel may feel better.
What can I skip?
Basically, these are optional, and many people do better without them: - Daily scrubs. They irritate. The American Academy of Dermatology advises against harsh exfoliation for thinner, mature skin. - Several acids at once. If you use an exfoliating acid, keep it to occasional use and never on the same night as starting a retinoid. - Expensive eye creams, unless you have a specific concern. Your normal moisturiser and sunscreen usually work around the eyes. - Collagen drinks for skin. Independent evidence is weak. See do collagen supplements work? - Trend products that promise visible change in days. Mayo Clinic notes many products need up to six weeks of use before any difference shows.
How do I adapt this by age?
- In your 20s and early 30s: sunscreen, moisturiser if needed, and possibly a gentle retinol. Prevention is the point.
- In your late 30s and 40s: add a consistent retinoid, and consider an antioxidant in the morning.
- Around menopause: skin often becomes drier. The American Academy of Dermatology suggests a mild cleanser instead of soap and moisturising after every bath. See menopause and your skin.
- Men: the same routine. Shaving can irritate, so avoid applying a retinoid straight after shaving.
What else matters besides products?
- Not smoking.
- Enough sleep and protein in your diet.
- Shade and a hat on long outdoor days. Mayo Clinic suggests limiting sun between 10 am and 2 pm.
None of these need a prescription. All of them count.
How long before I see results?
Give it three to six months. Take a photo every month in the same light. Mayo Clinic points out that if you stop using a product, your skin will likely return to how it was. So I tell people to choose a routine they can actually keep. A simple routine done for five years beats a complicated one done for five weeks.
How we approach this at Dr Tvacha
At a face assessment under the Long Game Anti-ageing Plan, I often start by simplifying your routine before suggesting any treatment. Protect comes before Restore. If your skin needs prescription products or in-clinic care, I write down the plan and fees before you pay. Sometimes the routine is all you need for now.
Frequently asked questions
What is the most important anti-ageing product?
Sunscreen. A randomised trial found adults who used sunscreen daily for about four and a half years were less likely to show increased skin ageing than those who used it occasionally. In Indian skin it also helps prevent tanning and pigmentation. A retinoid at night is the next most useful step. Everything else is a supporting role.
Do I need a separate serum, toner and essence?
No. Most people do well with a cleanser, sunscreen, a moisturiser if needed and a retinoid at night. Serums such as vitamin C or niacinamide are optional additions. Toners and essences are rarely necessary. Each extra product adds cost and a small risk of irritation, which matters in brown skin because irritation can leave dark marks.
At what age should I start an anti-ageing routine?
Sunscreen should start whenever you can, ideally from your teens, because sun damage builds over decades. A retinoid is often started in the late 20s or 30s, depending on your skin and concerns. There is no need to start everything at once. A simple routine started early and continued steadily is worth more than an elaborate one started late.
Can I use the same routine in Mumbai's humidity and in winter?
The steps stay the same, but textures can change. In humid months, a light gel moisturiser and a lighter sunscreen may feel better. In winter or in air-conditioned offices, skin often needs a richer cream. Keep the sunscreen and retinoid constant, and adjust the moisturiser to how your skin feels.
Do anti-ageing creams work as well as in-clinic treatments?
They do different jobs. Creams, especially sunscreen and retinoids, work slowly on skin quality and help prevent further damage. In-clinic treatments can address specific concerns such as movement lines, volume loss or deeper texture problems. I see the routine as the foundation. Without it, in-clinic results fade faster.
Written by
Dr Amit KarkhanisAesthetic Physician · MBBS, Dip. Dermatology (UK) · Reg. No. 2001/02/1124Founder of Dr Tvacha, practising in Thane since 2005. Leads the weight loss and hair programmes.
Sources
- Daily sunscreen slowed skin aging in middle-aged adults (MDedge, on the Nambour trial)
- Wrinkle creams: your guide to younger looking skin (Mayo Clinic)
- Skin care during menopause (American Academy of Dermatology)
- Topical tretinoin for treating photoaging: a systematic review of randomized controlled trials (International Journal of Women's Dermatology, 2022)
- Age spots: symptoms and causes (Mayo Clinic)
This article is for general education and does not replace a consultation. Medicines and treatments are prescribed only after a doctor's assessment. Last reviewed 25 October 2026.